Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Red Centre: July 3-12: Uluru

Thankfully the night was short in Coober Pedy, as we had to depart early
for an even longer road trip to Uluru and the Northern Territory.











En route we came upon a band of feral horses and a mob of feral camels - how amazing is that?

As we got closer to the Red Centre, known as the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, the earth got redder and redder.

Unfortunately, the rain began to fall quite heavily, and our hearts sank to think that we would have inclement weather for our visit to the Rock. When we arrived at the campground, our first order of business was to put up our tents. Luckily the rain abated somewhat to allow us to get this job completed in short order.


The next task was to eat supper under the shelter in the wet and cold. Now camping in and of itself is wonderful, but camping in the rain is totally horrible. It was NOT fun, considering that the weather for the area was just 6 degrees in the daytime, and promising to go below freezing at night! In fact, the news informed us that this was the coldeest weather EVER in the history of the area! And we were due to sleep in tents with no heat and no electricity! Later on that night we also discovered that the air mattresses provided for us did not hold the air and the tents themselves leaked, creating puddles in the corners of the tent. In the dark I thought that an animal was slapping me on the cheek, when in fact it was my wet pillow case which had got caught up under the air mattress in a pool of water! Thank goodness for coffee which was readily available! We availed ourselves of the chance to go to a campground pub with the opportunity to enjoy some dancing.
We closed the place down - anything to shorten the night in the cold tent. And cold and rainy it was - Rick's teeth were constantly chattering as the sleeping bag he had been given had a broken zipper. We slept in four layers of clothing plus we used every conceivable blanket and still we were freezing. Some of the group members found the conditions too severe and even slept on the bus! It is surprising how the body can adapt to sub-zero conditions and survive the night we did!
The next morning we all boarded the bus to head to the Rock - and what an amazing rock it was! Our first glimpse of the iconic rock was unforgettable. One of the great natural wonders of the world, the sandstone monolith stands 348 metres high and has most of its bulk below the surface. Also known as Ayers Rock, it is Australia's most famous landmark and is listed as a World Heritage site.




It is considered an Aboriginal sacred place, renamed as Uluru, and visitors are discouraged from climbing it. Even had we wished to climb the rock, it was not possible, as the climb was closed due to the inclement weather. I was disappointed not to be able to climb it, and looked longingly at the ascent path. I thought that the nearby van's slogan "Real Men Cry" was most appropriate for our circumstance! Actually, we were told that we were part of only a mere 3% of the population who are "lucky" enough to be able to see the Rock "crying"! It was memorable to see the rain stream down the sides of the Rock.


Instead we opted to do the 3-hour 10.6 kilometre walk around the base of the Rock.


In spite of the cold, wind and occasional rain shower, it was an incredible hike to see the many different faces of the Rock.






The Rock itself has many natural springs, waterholes, rock caves and ancient paintings.


At one point we came upon the "Camel's Tail" ... at another point we saw the "Skull" ...erosion had carved out an amazing cave on a different side ...other parts of the Rock had a grotto

and a waterfall area. Some parts were sacred male or female Aboriginal gathering places, and could not be photographed. The flora and fauna around the rock was also interesting.





We never tired of seeing the Rock. Although we were not able to see the Rock in its bright red hue, as on all the postcards, we returned at sunset for champagne drinks with the group

to celebrate the Rock darken with the setting of the sun.

Then from our campground the next morning, we could see the Rock again, this time in early morning sunrise haze.


As we travelled onward the last morning, the sun finally shone and the Rock gleamed out a fitting farewell to us! We were in awe!




In the distance we spied Mt. Conner, the third of the great monoliths of Central Australia. The table-topped mountain, a 700 year old sand and rock mesa, is three times the size of Uluru. In the morning distance we could also see the steep-sided domes of the Kata Tjuta, also known as the Olgas - our next travel destination.


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